Yoten -kabuki costume and its role-
Sep 2 (Tue), 2025‐Nov 30 (Sun), 2025

This museum exhibits ukiyoe woodblock prints published in Osaka in the Edo period. Many of the ukiyoe prints made in Osaka were portraits of kabuki actors performing in theatres mainly around Dotombori, depicting how they played in what costumes.

Kabuki costume not only shows the role of the character but also brightens up the stage. Oiran (high ranking prostitute)’s dignified costume such as manaita-obi (gorgeous kimono belt) and uchikake (a coat) or a upper-class princess’s luxurious furisode (kimono for young woman) enchant the audience. Samurai’s costume, such as kamishimo and suo invites ordinary people into a different world. There is also an eccentric design costume called ‘omigoromo’, which is uniquely seen in kabuki.

In this feature exhibition, we focus on yoten, unique costume for kabuki. Yoten is worn by torite, police forces, or gunpyo, armed forces as a uniform. There is also a gorgeous yoten with baren (tassels) on it. Ukiyoe prints are exhibited here which depict a variety of yoten costumes. Please see and enjoy ukiyoe prints which depict kabuki costumes on colorful kabuki stages.

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Yoten as costume
Yoten is unique costume for kabuki. The length is short with its bottom split at each side. Unlike typical kimono, yoten has no gusset on the edge of right and left front panel. In ‘jidaimono’ (historical plot) kabuki plays wearers of yoten are catchers of criminals and their yoten are called ‘kuro (black) yoten’ or ‘hana (flower) yoten’ according to their colors and patterns.

In “Ehon shibai nenju kagami” (written by Takamura Chikuri and illustrated by Utagawa Toyokuni, all three volumes) published in Kyowa 3 (1803), yoten is introduced as kabuki costume. There are similar explanation in ‘Sanza meikyo’ in “Ichiwa ichigen (addendum)” written by Ota Nampo published at the same period.

Main actors wear yoten with gorgeous patterns on the woven fabric and gold and silver baren(tassels) hung at the bottom. When the actor performs with a big motion baren(tassels) flutter, making the performance flashy.

Yoten as role
In kabuki, members of police forces(torite) and armed forces(gunpyo) are also called yoten as they wear yoten.

The legendary burglar, Ishikawa Goemon, or other leading-class valiant characters also wear yoten. These are called ‘date yoten’ or ‘karaori yoten’, gorgeous costume with gold-brocaded satin damask in combination with baren(tassels) at the bottom.

In the Edo period it was prohibited for actors to wear armor on stage and yoten was said to be the substitute for armor. It seems natural that many portraits of kabuki actors depict them wearing ‘suami’, that represents ‘kusari katabira’ (steel mesh vest, protector) under yoten.

Datesagari and yoten
Datesagari was used on kabuki stage before yoten became unique kabuki costume. Datesagari is a decorative item similar to sumo wrestler’s ornamental loincloth, worn under kimono hung in front. When the actor spreads his legs and kimono front is open, baren(tassels) attached to the bottom of datesagari are seen, making the performance and the Mie posing look more magnificent. In some cases, datesagari is worn together with tassel-attached yoten. Twofold baren(tassels) must have made the valiant performance more luxurious and gorgeous.